Creating Dimension - 3-part Video Series

I'm happy to announce that my Creating Dimension workshop is available in an online format.  While you won't have direct interaction with the instructor, the online format is very useful for learning.  The workshop is divided into three separate sessions, under the heading "Master Class: Enameled, Multi-Layered Panels" and is available exclusively from AAE Glass in Cape Coral, Florida.  The 3 sessions:

  • Part 1 ("Introduction to Enamels") gives you all the information on mixing, applying, prefiring, etc.  Part 1 contains everything you need to know about painting with enamels, even if you are doing just 2 layer work.
  • Part 2 ("Thick Panel Basics") provides a good understanding of the mechanics of layering, bubble control, firing, and so on.
  • Part 3 ("Advanced Thick Panels") contains in-depth information on thick panels, with a particular focus on creating engaging glasswork that has great depth and dimension.  It also includes many special tips and demos on painting trees, clouds, sunsets, etc.

All 3 sessions build on each other, but are designed to be viewable on their own. You can watch Part 1 (Intro to Enamels) and get familiar with the materials before you jump into Parts 2 and 3.

All the sessions include detailed handouts, and include liberal demos, tips, and other helpful information.  These techniques are relevant for any types of glass (Spectrum, Bullseye, or float) and most brands of enamels.

The videos (and handouts) are available once you purchase the session, and are viewable as many times as you like. The videos never expire. Please click on over to the AAE Glass site for more information.

A huge thank you to Tanya Veit and AAE Glass, who have been great to work with. Tanya herself did the final editing - and she makes even me look good!


First session

I bought the fist session and I was please by
the clarity of the explaination. I did used
enamel before and I had some ok results but not perfect.
With this session, I realised what was wrong. I am waiting to by
the next session.


Thank you for the comment, Sylvio! Im happy you enjoyed it. Part 2 is now available (as of late October 2017), and we film Part 3 in November (available early 2018)!


Paul - I purchased both of your videos from AAE and am really eager to try out this technique. But I am very confused. The first video goes into detail about which enamels you prefer and which mixing mediums you recommend. You seem to be promoting the benefits of FuseMaster EZFire enamels and (same brand) screen medium. But then on the AAE link to your videos the supply list includes Reusche black, brown and blue enamels. Hence the confusion. Are you using EZFire enamels or Reusche enamels? I have used Reusche paints (mixed with gum arabic and with glycol). But not the enamels. So what exactly do I need to buy to try this particular technique? Thank you, in advance, for taking the time to "unconfuse" me, for your great videos and for sharing your techniques, tips and tricks.


Hi Karyn

Sorry for the confusion. While I do like the FuseMaster EZ Fire Enamels and encourage those who are starting out to start with them, there are many brands that work well. In Part 1 of the video I review many brands and explain that it's largely a matter of preference, and that if someone has existing enamel that is suitable for painting they can continue with those enamels. I also make the point that there is no such thing as "one best brand", and your choice of brand depends on your style, the colors you want to achieve, and other factors.

AAE included these three Reusche colors in the supply list, simply because those are colors that I used in the mountain demo in both the Part 1 and Part 2 videos. So if you want to repeat that project just as I did it, those would be good choices.

But overall, feel free to use whatever enamels work best for you. I do enjoy the FuseMaster EZ Fire enamels because of the vibrant colors, and the fact that the bright (or "hot") colors such as red and orange do very well, and they resist burnout without the need to vent your kiln. In my own work I use mostly FuseMaster EZ Fire enamels, but also use Reusche, Ferro Sunshine Series, and Kaiser enamels - depending on the project. Other good brands are covered in Part 1.

I can also add (to help clear up another common question) that while I use Spectrum glass in the videos and in most of my own work, Bullseye glass works as well, and float is also a possibility (assuming you have float powder, which is covered in Part 2). I address this glass brand topic in more detail in Part 3 of the video series.

I hope this helps!

Paul Messink

Paul, Yes, that helps a lot!

Yes, that helps a lot! Thank you so much for your clarification and for your quick reply. I did not want to purchase the Reusche enamels unless I had to. I have already purchased a number of EZFire colors and will play with them for a while. If they do not seem to work for me I will try the Reusche.
Looking forward to Part Three!
All the best,


I purchased your first video on enamels from Aaeglass and will be purchasing the second one soon. The first video was wonderful and did a great job at explaining everything. I intend to primarily create landscapes and you mentioned using Kaiser glass enamels for this. Your video was mostly about using E-Z fire enamels and I am wondering if the techniques and temperatures are the same for both. Any information you can share will be appreciated. Thank you.

Kaiser and FuseMaster EZ Fire enamels

Hi Gracie

First, thanks for the great feedback on the videos. They have been very well received!

Yes - the temperatures and techniques are the same between the two brands (Kaiser enamels and FuseMaster EZ Fire enamels). So they are more or less interchangeable, other than some considerations with particular colors.

I like the overall palette of the Kaiser enamels - I think it's the best and most complete set of colors that I use for landscapes. Each brand, however, has their pros and cons.

- I like the dark chocolate brown in the Kaiser enamels, in particular, for trees and other darker brown areas.

- With Kaiser enamels, you are able to mix white with both red and orange, allowing you to get lighter tones in these colors. You'll need to take particular care of these colors, however, and make sure they are pre-fired and well vented. And note that with Kaiser, white is the ONLY color you can mix with red and orange.

- The FuseMaster EZ Fire reds and oranges hold their colors better without the need to vent, but you can unfortunately not mix them with white. The FuseMaster EZ Fire reds and oranges can only be mixed with yellows and light purple. (As of 2018, FuseMaster has added some additional colors, including Citrus which is a reasonable replacement for orange, Ultra Violet, and two new browns, which I really like.)

I don't stick with one brand of enamels for everything, I tend to use whatever brand works best and provides the best colors for my project. I do use the FuseMaster EZ Fire enamels in my workshops and videos because they do not need to be vented, and that is a huge help in getting multiple projects done in a classroom situation.

I hope this helps!

Thank you

Thanks for such a speedy answer and such great information. One more question though...what is the procedure for venting the Kaiser enamels and do all colors need to be vented. Do you need to vent when you prefire and also when you put layers together and fire. Have a great holiday and New Year.


Some colors are fairly stable (usually the darker colors - black, blue, etc) and others - particularly those containing cadmium - require venting (typically, red and orange, sometimes yellow or purple depending on the brand). Barry Kaiser may be able to provide a list of all the colors for which venting is recommended, if that info is not already on his web site.

I recommend venting ONLY during the pre-firing process, and NOT during the final firing. To vent, prop up the lid of your kiln with a small piece of kiln furniture or brick (not something that might be flammable), so that the lid stays open about 1/2" to 1". That should be sufficient. Your kiln will work harder to raise the temperature because some heat is escaping during venting. But the kiln controller should handle that and keep the temperature rising as needed.

Happy Holiday, and good luck!


Thanks again, keep making

Thanks again, keep making your beautiful glass work!

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
To help us prevent spam, please prove you're human by typing the words you see here.